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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.